Wednesday, July 11, 2018

the long way home

Saturday, June 2nd, I spent the morning making pancakes and playing card games with Matias. I finished emptying out my wardrobe, checking cupboards for any forgotten items, and lugged my two suitcases downstairs.  Late afternoon, we wrestled Shalom into her kennel and drove to the airport.  None of it felt real.  It felt like I was headed to the States for an extended vacation, like I would be back in a few months.  I handed my cat over to the airline and steeled myself for some difficulties in immigration.  Saying goodbye to Matias and my brother was harder than I thought, even though I knew I’d see them in three weeks, but it still felt more like something that would happen in theory, not a reality.

saying goodbye to Kristen and Joel at the airport
Then I passed through security and felt the pit in my stomach rise into my throat.  Hardly anyone was waiting in immigration, and the officer was unexpectedly friendly.  He took one look at my empty passport, another look at the signed printed piece of paper I gave him stating my passport was being processed for citizenship and proceeded to treat me as though I were already a Bolivian citizen, not charging me the exit fee for foreigners and waving me on after stamping my passport.

It wasn’t until I was alone in the bathroom stall near my gate that the tears came gushing out.  I felt my body ache with the reality of what I was leaving behind, all that I had invested in, grown to love and couldn’t bring with me.  The sharpness of it and the suddenness of leaving everything behind (despite the months and months of anticipating and waiting for this day to come) all but took my breath away.  But I still had almost 24 hours of traveling ahead, so I washed my face and headed out to join my fellow travelers in line to board our first flight.

Then I heard my name over the intercom, asking me to report to the front desk.  The airport official informed me I needed to verify my cat before I boarded, and I was led down to the baggage area along with a dog owner on the flight. Once out of earshot of the other passengers, the policeman who was escorting us to identify our pets told me that my cat had escaped from her kennel and I needed to help them catch her again.  He grumbled about people flying with pets, saying I was probably going to delay the whole flight.  

I walked into the baggage area and saw five or six men yelling and running around, trying to catch Shalom.  She’d wedged herself underneath one of the baggage machines, an impossible space to reach under.  Shalom looked calm, curled up on herself, but I could only imagine how panicked she must be with the loud machines, bright lights of cellphone flashlights shining in her eyes, and multiple men poking at her trying to get her to come out.  They gave me a stick to prod her out, and one man grabbed her by the tail.  I was finally able to get a grip on the nape of her neck, thinking that would hurt the least, but she seemed too fat to pull out.  With one or two men pushing her from behind and me pulling as hard as I felt comfortable doing, she finally popped out.  As I stuffed her back in her kennel, they explained to me that the whole front of my kennel had come apart (making me wonder how they’d been handling the kennel to make that happen!) and they were going to wrap the kennel in packing tape to keep the door from falling off again.

goodbye to Cochabamba at night

As I walked back upstairs to board my plane, I felt again like the whole trip was surreal.  Who has to chase their cat around the luggage sorting room because half the cage comes apart?!  And how is it that she escaped her kennel in an enclosed room, instead of when she was loaded on the plane?  Gosh was I grateful for His care for her, even if it seemed strange the way He provided her with extra security.

When our plane touched down in Miami, I half walked, half ran to immigration and moved as quickly as I could through all the requirements to re-enter the country, eager to find Shalom's kennel and check to see if she'd made it to the States with me.  In the immigration line, the dog owner who was with me in Cochabamba casually mentioned that she had been called down below to the planes in Santa Cruz (where we had a brief layover).  She explained that one of the baggage workers had positioned her large dog's kennel facing my cat's kennel.  Her dog had gotten so worked up facing my cat that he bit his cage, showering blood everywhere.  Sure enough, when I finally found Shalom, she was quiet and wide-eyed, but soaking wet with who knows what and her cage was covered in blood.

Shalom mid-journey
Once I was through customs, I was able to transfer her to a new, more comfortable kennel, get her cleaned up and watered.  The rest of the trip home was uneventful, and Shalom was a model traveller, quietly observing everything from her case, but never yowling or meowing.  She even let the two young travelers next to me on one flight pet her through one of the windows in the kennel.

Now that we're back, I think Shalom has transitioned much better than I have.  She's already back into her routine of sleeping in sunny spots, faithfully using her cat box, and even braving the great outdoors (something she was never able to do from my third story apartment).  I've been the one struggling to find my sleeping routine, wrestling with the sudden and unexpected death of my Grampy and dealing with a health issue that might have long-lasting implications for my future.  It's hardly been the transition I anticipated, but through it all, I've seen His hand continue to sustain me as promised in Psalm 54:4 
"Surely God is my help; the Lord is the one who sustains me."

I've seen His provision in the death of my Grampy in allowing me to have one last afternoon with him, one last wink, one last hand squeeze, one last "I love you."  I wasn't ready to say goodbye, but I was grateful I got to be one of the voices that sang to him in the wee hours before he passed.

I've seen His provision in bringing me home when He did, giving me a possible answer to the "why" question.  The tests I needed for a developing allergy led to a much more serious diagnosis, none of which could have been dealt with in Bolivia.  He knew my body needed more care and expertise than the doctors in Bolivia could offer, and began preparing me to return before I even knew I was sick.

I've seen His provision in giving me a car, right when I had to spend most of my car savings on an expensive medical test.  Before I even knew I had the need, He provided a solution for the now, calling me to press into Him in trust for the long term solution.

And then, on one of the darkest days since I came back, He gave me this as my devotional Scripture from a daily reminder on my phone:

“Why would you ever complain, O Jacob, or, whine, Israel, saying, “ GOD has lost track of me. He doesn’t care what happens to me”? Don’t you know anything? Haven’t you been listening? GOD doesn’t come and go. God lasts. He’s Creator of all you can see or imagine. He doesn’t get tired out, doesn’t pause to catch his breath. And he knows everything, inside and out. He energizes those who get tired, gives fresh strength to dropouts. For even young people tire and drop out, young folk in their prime stumble and fall. But those who wait upon GOD get fresh strength. They spread their wings and soar like eagles, They run and don’t get tired, they walk and don’t lag behind.”
‭‭Isaiah‬ ‭40:27-31‬ ‭MSG

So, if you ask me how the transition is going, you might get a long answer.  But one thing I do know through all this transition is that He has brought me here, and that He, HE is the one who will continue to sustain me.

HOME with family

Saturday, April 7, 2018

MountainTika

I'm looking for other ways to supplement my income as a teacher in the Roaring Fork Valley, realizing that the cost of daily life in Carbondale is exponentially higher than Cochabamba.   Yeesh!  I LOVE hand making things, and until now, I've only really done it for myself or to give as gifts to loved ones.  Once I return to Carbondale, I'm going to open my account at esty (my shop name will be MountainTika, which uses the Quechua word t'ika for flower), but for now, I have a small amount of items I've made to test the market.  If you're interested in anything you see, contact me at kata.stewart@gmail.com and I can send you more pictures/information about the item.
Banana birthday card-$2
*inscription on inside says "Good thing you're not a banana!"



Cupcake birthday card-$3
Felt letter hoop art-$6.50
Sensory cards-$7 for a pack of 10 cards
Hand-knit baby blanket-$25

Button balloon hoop art-$7

Tree pincushion-$3.50

30th birthday card-$2

Tree hoop art-$9
Baby shower card-$2

Flower hoop art-$10

Lined zipper pouch-$9



Felt heart ornaments-$1.50 each or 10 for $10


Monster blank card-$3
*comes with white envelope


Hoop Art-$5

wedding card-$2
(also available with the inscription "congratulations" in English)
*comes with envelope


Heart hoop art-$8

Pumpkin felt pincushion-$3.50




baby headband-$3.50
Balloon birthday blank card-$2




Felt fox ornament-$4
Felt needlebook-$4.50


Bolivia llama ornament-$6

heart card-$2

heart card-$2

Spanish birthday card-$2
*also available in English

Spanish birthday card-$2

Elephant birthday card-$2


handmade up-cycled notebook-$4

Handmade up-cycled journal-$4

Hand-embroidered hoop art-$7

Monday, April 2, 2018

We're goin' on a glacier hunt

Before I head back to the States, Collin and I hoped to fit in a couple more adventures in the mountains of Bolivia.  Mid-March, we headed to the Quimsa Cruz range to explore the glaciated area  on a three day camping trip.
"banderazo"
A couple days before we left, we realized that in the middle of our route, the Bolivian government was going to shut down half the interstate in order to stretch a 200km flag from Oruro to La Paz in support of Bolivia's case to regain lost territory from Chile and access to the ocean.  They were calling it the "banderazo" (the super big, huge flag), and citizens all over the country were encouraged to come and participate.  It was a really bizarre form of inconvenience, but ended up being quite interesting to see the miles and miles of fabric stretched along the opposite side of the interstate.  We arrived at that section of the highway just in time to see the helicopters fly over (supposedly containing Chilean authorities) and the people on the ground waving the flag.  Bolivia presented it's case at the Hague beginning in mid-March.
traffic jam on Bolivian interstate

The interstate was relatively free of traffic during the spectacle, other than about a half an hour stretch where there was some confusion about who should be driving where, and we sat motionless for awhile until Collin decided to off-road it to get around the traffic snarl.
campsite the first night
After finding what we thought was a pretty good camp spot the first night, we realized partway through the night that there was a significant amount of traffic that passes along that road, and even more so as buses full of people from remote towns were returning from supporting the banderazo.  We also realized how much camping around 15,000ft can affect the body, especially at night, as we battled headaches, nausea and just overall feeling yucky.

The following morning, we went up and over a 16,900ft pass to get to a mine-filled basin with several glaciers.  Last year, Matias did a science project and presentation about glaciers, and ever since has been fascinated by the idea of seeing one in person.  The Quimsa Cruz range is full of glaciers, and we were determined to find at least one of them up close.
The pass we drove over had all sorts of superstitious paraphernalia heaped at the top, as most travelers stop at the top to drink out of small alcohol bottles, stack up rocks and say a prayer to Pachamama (the Earth Goddess) to protect them on their journey.

In addition to glaciers, Matias is currently obsessed with rocks and finding new ones for his collection.  Mountains filled with mines was a perfect place for Matias to grow his rock collection, and we usually ended back at the car after a hike a pound or two heavier than when we began.


 

The second day, we drove up an old mining road to get as close as we could by car to the glacier, and then clambered up scree fields and slabs of rock to see the glacier up close.  We were thwarted by an icy blue lake at the base of the glacier, but Matias was feeling the altitude anyway, so we headed back down.
The first glacier we hiked to


On our way back down the valley, around 13,000 or 14,000ft, we came across an idyllic meadow and decided to stop.  It was the mother-of-all picnic spots to eat our lunch the second day in the lush green meadow, filled with red and pink alpine flowers that looked like small crocuses.  A shepherdess in a deep pink skirt was grazing her llamas in the field, and the stream meandered through the meadow in oxbows.  It was only when we tried to sit down on the soft looking grass that we realized the grass was more like cactus and had tiny spines that hurt like crazy.  Once we pulled out our sleeping pads to sit on, it was pleasant to sit down.  The weather oscillated wildly from snow and sleet when we first arrived, to bright sunshine, back to wind and cloudy weather at the end that had us taking off and putting on our layers in rapid fashion.  It sure didn't feel like we were as high as a Colorado 14er, as lush as our surroundings were, especially after venturing almost 3,000ft higher earlier in the day.
We drove back down the valley, up again to the main road, and then wound our way back down into a deep jungle valley, only to pull off on a dirt road and climb back up to 14,000 or 15,000 ft again.  The road we took was maintained by the countless mining operations higher up in the valley, but there were still portions of the road that reminded me of 4WD roads high in the mountains in Colorado, and cliffs that plunged hundreds of feet below, just beyond the road's edge.  We drove past countless waterfalls and at least one glacial lake before we found a more secluded camp spot than the night before on the shores of another glacial lake.  After cooking up a quick meal of cookstove spaghetti, we climbed in our tent and had enough service to call the States, calling my dad from way up in the Bolivian Andes all the way to Carbondale, Colorado, all on my dinky little cellphone.
The view from our tent the next morning was pretty spectacular from both angles, looking down the valley at the green jungle mountains, the road winding it's way on the steep hillsides, and glacial lakes sparkling below.  Looking up the valley was equally impressive, as the high peaks were swathed in ever-changing mist and we could see cars wind their ways up impossibly steep and narrow roads over passes that looked impassable even on foot.

Matias digging for special rocks
  Our final day, we drove further up the valley, passing major mining operations, heavy equipment, and lots of barracks for the miners until we reached the end of the road at the head of the valley, just under a bowl filled with glaciers.  After a short hike, we were able to actually reach the glaciers this time, tasting the glacier water dripping from the underside, climbing on the very edge, and looking at the fine glacial debris scattered all around where the glacier had been not that long ago, maybe even since the last hard rain.




I dared Collin to wade in the little pond that had collected at the base of the glacier, and as I walked across the sand to a rock where I was going to take my own shoes off to wade, I suddenly sank up to my knee with one step and my shin with the other as I lurched my way towards solid ground.  It was the closest I had ever gotten to true quicksand, and I think I could've easily ended up in sand up to my waist had I gotten stuck and tried to thrash my way out.  Yikes!


The vistas were amazing; impossible to truly capture on camera, like most places really worth visiting.  This time we didn't feel the altitude as much, even though we were almost as high as the other places we'd gone the day before.  Cochabamba was still about 8 hours away, though, and we needed to get most of the drive done before it got dark, so we turned around and headed home.

the mining camps below the last glacier
(a road cuts up to an impossible pass in the second to last major notch on the right of the picture) 




We drove back down the same winding road, past the glaciated lakes, under crazy overhangs, through several tunnels, past waterfalls that fell right next to the road, and then finally back onto the main road, which took us on paved roads for most of the way back home.




This is the place on the blog where I write some sort of deep reflection, meaning I extracted from our trip, or neatly tie up the story.  It was just a fun trip.  Nothing more.  Lots of beauty, lots of uncomfortable physical experiences to access remote and interesting places, but I had no major revelations, nor did I come away from the trip with anything more than a tired body and a happy heart.
colorful quinoa fields we passed on the drive home across the altiplano